Winter pithas: Changing lives, keeping traditions alive

If you grew up in a rural part of Bangladesh or spent winter vacations during childhood in your village home, then you have been lucky enough to enjoy one of the best things about this season — pithas.

Pithas, or rice cakes, can be sweet or savoury and similar to pancakes, dumplings or fritters. They are usually made from dough or batter made with ground rice flour, which is then steamed, fried or griddled.

In Bangladesh, like many other countries in the Indian subcontinent, most of the pithas — prominently “Bhapa” and “Chitoi” — are traditional dishes that people relish during winter.

However, people living in the cities have been missing out on these homemade delicacies as they got busier with their professional lives and do not have the time to make and enjoy pithas at home. Hence, their dependence on seasonal pitha sellers has only grown in recent years.

The smell of their freshly made pithas floating in the air on a cold winter morning or evening brings back childhood memories full of love even in the middle of the busy life in the brick-and-mortar cities.

Over the years, the rising demand for pithas in the cities has given seasonal sellers the confidence to sell these beloved rice cakes around the year. During winter, their sale only increases.

Dhaka, like other major cities, hosts hundreds of such vendors who sell various types of pithas at different city points, helping people enjoy such beloved food and reminisce about their childhood in the villages.

The demand for homemade winter pithas has given birth to numerous businesses through which many people across the country have changed their lives for the better.

Easy to find

Nowadays, it’s very easy to find pitha shops in different areas of Dhaka city and other cities in the country as winter descents. With urbanisation spreading and city dwellers getting busier, the makeshift shops on the footpath or the side of the road — apart from some restaurants or high-end eateries — are now the go-to place for people to get their pithas.

With winter’s arrival this year, the sales of delicious pithas have already begun at many roadside shops in Dhaka city. Apart from footpaths or the side of the roads, many seasonal pitha-sellers set up their makeshift shops at any suitable open space or place where crowds gather every day.

Vendors have said that their businesses have already gained momentum and the sales will hopefully increase in the coming days of the season.

The increasing demand for pithas also leads many people to shift or expand from their usual businesses to selling pithas so that they can earn some extra money by taking the advantage of the winter season.

However, many vendors have said that even though the sales are growing, their profits are not going up at the same time as production costs have gone up significantly.

Amir Hossain, a vendor at Uttara, said that pitha selling has always been a good business in winter but the profits are lower compared to the last few years because of the rising prices of all ingredients.

Afternoon to Midnight

Vendors usually start selling in the afternoon and continue till late at night, during which people of all ages crowd the shops to enjoy the taste of different types of winter pithas. Some shops also sell and deliver pithas to different corporate offices.

During a visit to a pitha shop in the Lalbagh area recently, this correspondent found the sellers too busy even to talk to him while making pithas for the buyers.

Bhapa, Chitoi and “Dim Chitoi,” which cost between TK 10 and Tk 30, were the most favoured by the consumers. One of the pitha-makers, Jhorna Khatun said she has been making pithas for the last 20 years. “Earlier, I used to sell pithas in the winter and work other jobs the rest of the year. Now I sell pithas year-round because their demand and sale are good. But they indeed are the highest in winter.

“Nowadays, I sell pithas worth Tk 1,500 every day and my profit is around Tk 500-700,” she added.

Talking to The Business Post, Dhaka University student Saiful Islam said, “I always feel nostalgic whenever I have pitha from these roadside shops during winter. It takes me back to my childhood days in my village.”

“Thanks to these vendors, even though we pass a busy urban life with our studies and jobs, we are not missing out on this beautiful and tasty food,” he said happily.

The types of pithas

Vendors said they usually sell the two most popular items — Bhapa and Chitoi. Bhapa pitha is made with rice flour, date molasses and coconut and then steamed. Chitoi pitha is made from a batter made of rice flour, salt and water and then griddled.

Meat, eggs and vegetables are also used in preparing some pithas such as Vegetable Pitha, Jhal Patishapta and Meat Patishapta.

The vendors also sell different types of “bhorta,” a mixture of various mashed food items, as condiments to eat with the pithas. At least 20 types of bhorta, including dried fish, coriander, mustard, black cumin and prawn, can be found at the winter pitha shops.

Tania Rahman, a housewife who lives at Lalbagh, said the main reason she went to the pitha shop was the various types of bhorta. “It’s not possible to make this many items at home. The bhortas really increase the taste of the pithas.”

During the winter, Bhapa, Chitoi and several other types of pithas are always available in the roadside shops. But if you want to try more varieties, a trip to the restaurants or fast food shops will suffice.

Different restaurants and shops sell pithas like Dudh Chitoi, Dudh Puli, Kheer Puli, Narkel Puli, Chandra Puli, Kola Bora, Patishapta, Malpoa, Bhapa Puli, Shahi Puli, Phool Pakon, Nokshi Pitha, Surjomukhi, Chicken Pitha and Jhal Chingri Pitha. They cost between TK 10 and TK 1,000.

Meanwhile, commercially made pithas are also taking a major share of the pitha market alongside homemade ones. There are factories that produce traditional pithas commercially. Many large food shops, restaurants and super shops now sell these pithas.

Ahasan Ullah, a pitha maker in Dhaka, said his factory makes and sells nine types of pithas. “I used to sell pithas during the three months of winter only. But now I sell year-round and my sale is around Tk 7 lakh.”

“Retailers collect pithas from us and sell in different areas. I used to provide home delivery services as most of my customers buy pithas online,” he added.