In the maze-like streets of Old Dhaka, the rooftops of high-rise buildings host a festival unlike any other. Starting with the iconic, highly competitive kite-flying in the afternoon, the revelry is just getting started as night descends.
Residents celebrate the southward journey of the sun from the tropic of Capricorn to the tropic of Cancer. The festival, which usually takes place from January 14 to 15, is also known as Makar (Capricorn) Shankranti. The annual celebration marks the end of the ninth month of the Bengali calendar – Poush.
Shakrain – a celebration of kites and lights – is one of the oldest festivals of Bangladesh, which dates back to the Mughal period.
The festival, a jewel in the crown of Old Dhaka traditions, is not only about the colour, performance and competition, but also a source of happiness and pride for Old Dhaka dwellers.
In the past, kings and royals would host Shakrain to entertain the populace during the harvest. But now the day is also known as Poush Sankranti and Shakrain or Ghuri Utshob, with kites being the central feature of it.
Shakrain is celebrated mostly in the southern part of Dhaka city where colourful kites of all shapes and sizes speckle the precious bright blue sky, their threads forming an invisible cat's cradle overhead.
Thousands of people get on their rooftops to fly kites, transforming the sky into a glittery kaleidoscope of hundreds of thousands of kites. They also have kite fights with their neighbours.
As the sun bids farewell, countless "fanoosh" (colourful paper lanterns) dot the sky like small fireflies. The celebrations turn merrier when people are greeted with pitha (cake) and traditional cuisine.
The colours of Shakrain shine brighter across different parts of Old Dhaka as the winter sun starts setting. The light shows, paper lanterns, and fireworks that illuminate the sky take over the festivities as rooftops are abuzz with fire-breathing stunts – all meant to keep the heart of an Old Dhaka heritage beating.
Music awakens the whole town, and flamboyant groups arrange daylong programmes, including concerts and parties.
This day is also celebrated by Hindus in India, Nepal and Bangladesh in many cultural forms, with different names – "Maghesangkranti," (Nepal), "Saakrat" (Delhi and Haryana), "Uttarayan" (Gujarat), "Maghi" (Punjab) and many more.