Workers at Dekko Legacy garments in Ashulia reported to work at their regular time on Saturday and continued working after the lunch break. However, around 2:30pm, a group of outsiders gathered at the factory gate and demanded that production be stopped, urging the workers to join them.
A second group approached the nearby Ha-Meem Group factory gate and engaged in similar activities. In response, both factories announced their closure around 2:40pm to prevent potential vandalism.
Along with these two factories, at least 39 readymade garment (RMG) factories in Ashulia were forced to suspend production on Saturday and seven others could not open at all.
Dekko Legacy Managing Director Kalpan Hossain told The Business Post, “Our workers have been working willingly and sincerely. However, since September 1, outsiders have been causing disruptions under the guise of labour unrest.
“I already experienced delays in air shipments due to the recent student protests, which shut down factories for 10 days. Now, once again, we are being forced to halt production. Buyers are monitoring the situation and we have no idea when this crisis will end,” he lamented.
He added, “I have a shipment scheduled for Monday, but the goods are not ready yet. I am not sure how I will manage this!”
Power grab behind unrest
Since August 31, Bangladesh has been witnessing garment worker unrest, mainly in the Ashulia and Savar areas. The unrest is reportedly linked to a power struggle between local BNP-backed leaders and ousted AL-linked figures.
Factory owners and law enforcement agencies attribute the violence to attempts by BNP-affiliated leaders to assert control over industrial zones previously dominated by AL-backed figures, following the regime change.
This conflict over dominance in the readymade garments sector is destabilising the country’s export-driven industries.
The ongoing crisis has severely impacted production in the RMG industry, with factory owners already struggling to manage backlogs created during the recent student protests. Now, they fear significant losses, with concerns that international buyers may reduce orders due to the instability.
Joint force restoring order
A joint force, led by the Bangladesh Army, is working to control the situation and has made significant progress in restoring order.
Speaking to The Business Post, Labour and Employment Adviser Asif Mahmud Shojib Bhuiyan said, “We have confirmed that some local BNP leaders are attempting to take control of the jhut [fabric scrap] business from fascist Awami League leaders, which has affected the garment industry.
"Additionally, some Awami League leaders are trying to create unrest across the country and are now posing as RMG workers. We have already communicated with the BNP high command to take action against their leaders and law enforcement agencies will take the necessary steps against the miscreants," he said.
Asif also assured that law enforcement agencies would follow all codes of conduct to prevent any casualties.
BGMEA confirms factories to reopen
Meanwhile, the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) announced on Saturday that all garment factories will remain open on Sunday, operating as usual.
BGMEA President Khandoker Rafiqul Islam expressed satisfaction with the efforts of the army and industrial police in ensuring security for industrial production. "We appreciate the role of the army and industrial police in safeguarding our factories," he said.
BGMEA Director Md Mohiuddin Rubel added, “Thanks to the joint force's efforts and the support of local residents, the situation is improving. I believe it will be fully under control within two days.”
BGMEA Director Shovon Islam stated that while most factories across the country remained operational on Saturday, the Ashulia area faced issues related to salary payments. He added that BGMEA is working closely with the interim government to resolve these problems swiftly.
Shovon expressed optimism that production in garment factories would fully resume by Sunday and that the unrest would gradually subside.
Industry insiders reported that the situation has improved since Thursday following joint force action. Local residents and workers are assisting the joint force in maintaining peace in the garment areas, with many chasing off protesters in several locations.
To address security concerns, the BGMEA has established a coordination cell involving the army, industrial police, intelligence agencies, factory owners and other law enforcement bodies. This area-specific setup is designed to respond swiftly to any incidents of unrest or insecurity, ensuring the stability of factory operations.
Protests began at Dhaka EPZ
According to the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), the ongoing protests in the export-oriented industries began on August 19 at the Dhaka EPZ gate, where a group of people started demonstrating, demanding jobs. The protest soon spread to nearby factories, though the initial impact was minimal.
Industry insiders, workers and law enforcement sources reported that on August 31, around 10,000 workers from Nassa Group began vandalising factories. They forced other factory owners, including Al-Muslim Group, to shut down and urged their workers to join the protests.
Several factories were also vandalised when owners and workers refused to halt production. Since then, the affected areas have experienced ongoing labour unrest and frequent factory closures.
It is worth noting that Nassa Group Chairman Nazrul Islam Mazumder has close ties with ousted former prime minister Sheikh Hasina. Recently, the central bank dissolved the EXIM Bank board, where Mazumder also served as chairman.
