The unrest among readymade garment (RMG) workers, which began on August 31 at the Nassa Group factory in Ashulia, has escalated beyond initial expectations, despite interim government efforts to resolve the crisis through peaceful means.
On Tuesday, the unrest further intensified, paralysing two major highways leading into Dhaka and causing severe traffic congestion.
Over the past month, the interim government has held multiple meetings with representatives of both workers and factory owners. The 18-point demands of RMG workers have largely been addressed, with garment factory owners agreeing to meet these demands. Despite this, the situation remains volatile.
On Monday, the government was forced to escalate its response when police fired rubber bullets to disperse protesters during a clash, resulting in the death of one worker and the hospitalisation of five others.
The unrest has spread beyond Ashulia to Gazipur, where tensions have intensified since Monday. Garment workers are regularly blocking roads, staging protests both inside and outside factories, and resorting to vandalism.
Since September 1, around 50 garment factories have been forced to halt production regularly, with more than 10 factories implementing layoffs each day.
Meanwhile, on Tuesday, two factions of the Bangladesh Nationalist Party (BNP) clashed in Gazipur over control of the lucrative jhut (fabric scrap) trade.
The interim government and law enforcement agencies believe the ongoing unrest stems from this jhut trade dispute, as BNP leaders vie for control following the ousting of prime minister Sheikh Hasina, who fled the country on August 5 after a student-led uprising.
The pressing question now is why the interim government has failed to control the escalating unrest and who is behind the ongoing crisis. How will Bangladesh’s vital RMG industry sustain itself with around 100 factories in Ashulia severely affected, most of which are large-scale operations?
Factory closures pressure RMG sector
Industry insiders report growing pressure from international buyers, as many factories in the region have remained closed for over a month. Global buyers are reconsidering placing new orders, and the continuous suspension of production has led to significant financial losses, especially during a time when the global economic crisis has already weakened the sector.
Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) Senior Vice President Abdullah Hil Rakib said, “There is a conspiracy at both national and international levels, and the interim government has failed to enforce the rule of law in the industrial areas.
“More than 150 garment factories and at least 4,00,000 workers are suffering due to this irrational unrest. How are we supposed to pay our workers, and how will they sustain their livelihoods?”
Interim govt blames AL, India, BNP for unrest
The interim government has blamed a vested interest group, including the ousted Awami League, neighbouring India and BNP activists, for instigating the unrest. These groups, allegedly competing for control of the fabric scrap trade (locally known as “jhut”), are said to be exploiting the emotions of innocent workers.
There are also accusations that certain garment factory owners with ties to the Awami League are actively fuelling the unrest to create further instability in the sector. These include Envoy Group, owned by former lawmaker Abdus Salam Murshedy and Mondol Group, owned by the family of the late lawmaker Abdul Majid Mondol.
Other key figures include Awami League-backed former Dhaka North City Corporation mayor Atiqul Islam, who owns Islam Group, former lawmaker and Awami League leader AK Azad, owner of Ha-Meem Group, and Nazrul Islam Mazumder’s Nassa Group, which has close ties to Sheikh Hasina.
Additionally, Generation Next, linked to Dhaka’s High Commissioner to London, Saida Muna Tasneem’s family, has also been implicated.
Govt regrets unfortunate death, pledges action
Labour and Employment Adviser Asif Mahmud Sajib Bhuiyan told the media that there is substantial evidence showing Awami League affiliates are directly involved in the unrest, spreading misinformation among the workers.
Law enforcement agencies have already apprehended several “culprits,” and operations are ongoing to arrest others.
“The entire situation was orchestrated to incite workers to take to the streets, leading to the escalation of the unrest,” Bhuiyan said on Tuesday during a press briefing at his office in the capital. “Law enforcement personnel have been instructed to exercise the utmost patience and to act as mediators between the workers and factory owners,” he added.
“Shots were fired from within the crowd of protesters, prompting action from law enforcement. Unfortunately, a garment worker lost his life in the incident. We deeply regret this and the victim’s family will be compensated. They have already received Tk 5 lakh from the factory owner,” Asif further stated.
Protest in Gazipur
Workers of Apparels Limited, a factory under TNZ Group in Gazipur, blocked the Dhaka-Mymensingh highway on Tuesday after the factory management announced its closure without paying the promised wages.
The workers, demanding their overdue payments, began the blockade early in the morning, bringing traffic to a halt from 9:30 am onwards.
By Tuesday morning, traffic on both the Dhaka-Mymensingh and Dhaka-Tangail highways had come to a standstill, leading to tailbacks of 7 to 10 kilometres in both directions and causing major disruptions for commuters.
Protesting workers stated that the factory management had previously promised to settle their outstanding wages.
“In line with the owner’s announcement, we waited peacefully all day yesterday. Suddenly, without paying the overdue wages, the management declared the factory closed. We will not leave the highway until all our dues are paid. The month has ended and now our landlords will demand rent, shopkeepers will expect payment, and we need to pay for our children’s school fees and private tuition,” said one worker.
Attempts to contact Kabir Hossain, general manager of Apparels Limited, for comment were unsuccessful, as he did not respond to phone calls.
In a separate incident, workers from MM Knitwear Limited in the Konabari area of Gazipur have been protesting for two days, demanding an increase in their tiffin allowance, night shift pay and attendance bonuses. With their demands still unmet, they continued their strike on Tuesday, halting production at the factory.
Meanwhile, workers from Deluxe Fashions Limited, located in the Chandana Chowrasta area, staged protests on Tuesday morning over three months of unpaid wages. The protesting workers visited nearby factories, urging others to join their demonstration. To prevent further unrest, several factories in the area announced closures for the day.
Unrest in Ashulia
A group of garment workers in Ashulia staged a demonstration on Tuesday afternoon, blocking roads to demand justice for a worker who died in a clash with law enforcement on Monday. The protest disrupted traffic, but the roads were cleared by 2 pm.
According to the BGMEA, at least 19 factories in the Ashulia area were either closed or had suspended production on Tuesday. Of these, six factories implemented the “no work, no pay” policy under Section 13(1) of the Bangladesh Labour Act, 2006.
Clash between BNP factions
At least five people were injured in a clash on Tuesday between two factions of the Bangladesh Nationalist Party (BNP) over control of the jhut (fabric scrap) trade in Gazipur. The incident took place at around 10 am in the Zarun area of Konabari.
Local sources reported that the jhut business at the Astro Knitwear Limited garment factory in the Zarun area has long been dominated by members of the ruling Awami League. Recently, BNP leaders and activists have attempted to seize control of the trade.
BNP Vice President of Gazipur’s Ward 7, Salahuddin, and the Jubo Dal president of the same ward, Biplob Khan, are reportedly leading efforts to take over the factory’s jhut operations.
On Tuesday morning, supporters of Salahuddin and Biplob Khan attempted to remove jhut from the factory, only to be confronted by a rival group led by former BNP leaders Zahirul Islam and Babul Hossain.
A verbal altercation escalated into a physical confrontation, with both groups engaging in running battles. During the clash, 15-20 supporters of Salahuddin and Biplob Khan, armed with local weapons, attacked the group led by Zahirul and Babul. Five people, including Alam Khandkar, Badal Khandkar, Shamim Khandkar, Zahirul Khandkar and Babul Hossain, sustained serious injuries.
