Revival of glorious Dhakai Muslin

Muslin, the legendary fabric associated with Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh has a glorious heritage. It ruled the roost in the fashion scenario, not only among the elite in South Asia but also in the fashion capitals of Europe. This precious fabric enjoyed truly global prestige and patronage and dates back to antiquity. It was deemed worthy of clothing ancient Greek goddesses, aristocratic families of distant lands and indeed successive generations of Mughal royalties. According to some experts, even mummies of ancient Egyptian kings were wrapped in Muslin clothing. Even in the 17th and 18th centuries, Dhakai Muslin was a hit with the fashionistas in the West and an object of envy for many. Dhakai Muslin is considered one of the greatest treasures of civilization and Bangladesh can rightfully be proud of the fact. Unfortunately, neglect from the British rulers, expansion of the East India Company, Industrial Revolution in England, the imposition of high taxes on muslin combined to contribute to the sad demise of this precious fabric in the middle of the 19th century. Legend has it that fingers of weavers were cut off to ensure that they could no longer partake in the elaborate and complicated task of weaving the fabric of incalculable value.

So, it is great to know that Dhakai Muslin is on the way to making a grand comeback. Especially as the news comes in the 50th anniversary of the independence of Bangladesh. According to an in-depth report published in this newspaper on Saturday the fabric is set to revive after a long 173 years and efforts are underway to commercialise its production. The report says that the would-be Muslin would be even more refined than that of its halcyon days. In the erstwhile era Dhakai Muslin used to be woven with a special category of yarn called 500-metric count length of fibre. And in the new era 731-metric count is being used to produce Muslin which will be much finer.

The new avatar of Dhakai Muslin will be weaved using special cotton grown in Mymensingh. So far, a total of six sarees have been woven on experimental basis while 60 others in the pipeline by June 2022. On a highly positive note, documentation paper will be made for international recognition of Dhakai Muslin and Geographical Indication rights have already been approved.

The project for rediscovering the technology of muslin and reviving its production, commenced in 2018 at a cost of Tk 12.10 crore. Dhakai Muslin House has been constructed on unused land once belonged to BJMC at Rupganj in Narayanganj.

Observers have hailed the project as a success. However, it is no easy task to ensure that Dhakai Muslin that went into oblivion fully returns to its glory days. It must be remembered that weaving Muslin was a hereditary profession with skills passed down through families for generations. Getting the yarn from the cotton, then spinning them and weaving them into cloth used to be a painstakingly long process. The project officials had to overcome challenges of finding the right cotton variety, spinners, and weavers. Even to get samples of Dhakai Muslin they had to visit London Museum. Finding Phuty carpas, the cotton essential for Dhakai Muslin was also a tough task. For those in charge of the project it was a long and laborious process and we applaud them for their achievement. According to the report 22 people have been trained for Muslin production and some 75 received training on how to make yarn.

The report says that the target for commercial production has been set by 2023 while efforts are underway to increase the durability of the fabric before commercial production begins. We also have to ensure that the cotton, fabric and yarn are of the highest quality. Opinions of the local designers and fabric experts should be sought. Also, proper branding of Dhakai Muslin should begin in right earnest.