Home ›› 17 Mar 2023 ›› Front
Sustainability is crucial for Bangladeshi apparel exporters in retaining global buyers, as well as to strengthen the industry, cement its growth, and help achieve the ambitious target of cutting carbon emissions by 45 per cent within 2030.
Apparel industry leaders and diplomats made the remarks at the 4th edition of Sustainable Apparel Forum, and emphasised on making the shift from linear to circular model to accelerate sustainability in Bangladesh’s apparel sector.
The apparel industry is currently responsible for 8 per cent – 10 per cent of carbon emissions globally, and the brands and buyers have set a target to reduce emissions by 45 per cent within 2030, in a bid to limit global warming to 1.5°C.
Addressing the event, Ambassador Peter D Haas of US Embassy in Bangladesh said, “Sustainable economic growth in the garment sector and beyond must go hand-in-hand with strong labour rights, which include the rights of workers to form and join independent trade unions, and collectively bargain for better working conditions.
“So let’s ask ourselves, what does sustainability look like within the textile and apparel supply chain? We know that a sustainable RMG industry involves everyone across the supply chain – governments, the private sector, trade unions, and consumers.”
He continued, “RMG stakeholders play a critical role in improving labour rights, workplace safety, ethical sourcing, and environmental protections to ensure the industry is bolstered by responsible business practices, and benefits from sustainable growth.
“Together, we can also think about accelerating the sustainability of Bangladesh’s apparel industry by proactively preparing for the future, including the impacts of climate change and the fourth industrial revolution.”
Addressing the event as chief guest, Commerce Minister Tipu Munshi said, “For the country’s economy, the RMG sector is very important and the government is working to make it sustainable.
“Two issues can expedite the journey towards sustainability – government policy and support from all stakeholders. We are providing all-out support, and partners should come forward too.”
Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) Founder and CEO Mostafiz Uddin said, “In the global garment market, sustainability has become a critical component of corporate operations, enabling businesses to establish a long-lasting presence.
“Bangladesh has taken steps towards sustainable manufacturing, taking into consideration the needs of the environment and the current landscape.”
Pointing out that sustainability refers to people, planet and profits, Mostafiz added, “To leave the earth livable to the next generation and for the betterment of business, there is no alternative to sustainability.
“Brands have set a target to reduce 45 per cent carbon emissions. If they see no progress or initiatives in reducing carbon emissions and sustainability, they will leave Bangladesh and relocate their sourcing destination.”
Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) President Faruque Hassan said, “The core mantra of sustainability is ‘Leave no one behind.’ Our commitment is to take the RMG industry to the next level of sustainability and we are looking comprehensively to all the possible areas of concerns.
“Our strides towards sustainability, particularly in the fields of environmental and social sustainability in past decades, testify to this fact. For this, we need more support from the advanced economies in terms of product and fiber diversification, innovation, technological upgradation, reskilling and upskilling our people.”
He then said, “We have ensured 100 per cent safety in terms of fire, structural and electrical mishaps within the workplace, which has restored global confidence in us. We have taken a number of initiatives to ensure better wellbeing of our workers.”
Bangladesh currently has the highest number of LEED green factories certified by the US Green Building Council (USGBC) – which is 192. Also, 53 out of 100 world’s top green garment factories are located in Bangladesh.
Another 550 such factories are in the pipeline for getting certifications
Charles Whiteley, head of European Union delegation in Bangladesh, said, “The textile sector is the beating heart of the EU-Bangladesh trade relations, and exports to the European Union have risen from $3 billion euros in 2002 to $24 billion euros last year.
“Now that recipe needs to evolve to meet the demands of the world, which is the EU’s new environmental, political and consumer reality.”
The envoy further said, “First, the graduation of Bangladesh to a developing country status, and the transition to GSP Plus. This uncertainty is not the idea of business. The finalisation of the new EU-GSP regulation is a factor too.
“The EU will review its trade relations in 2024, and it will remain effective for the next ten years.”
Whiteley added, “Second, Bangladesh can remain competitive by becoming a centre of excellence regarding compliance, and by engaging in industrial innovation to meet the challenges of green transition.”
Epic Group Executive Chairman Ranjan Mahtani said, “Sustainability is the heart of business and it should be the passion of a company investing in sustainability. It creates a better work environment and gives leverage.”
Awareness key to marching forward
Faruque Hassan, also the managing director of Giant Group, said, “While we move towards a circular economy, the skills and efficiencies of our industries must continue to improve, as this is key to being competitive in the global marketplace.
“Since this is relatively a new topic, not much is known about it yet. We need to raise awareness amongst ourselves regarding this issue, which will eventually help us to understand the global value chain and develop market-based solutions for promoting sustainable production and consumption.”
Ensuring a level playing field
The BGMEA president added, “Ensuring a sustainable business environment is now one of the major priorities of today’s fashion world. In the past few years, a number of due diligences have come up. Particularly, the EU is going to adopt a new due diligence guideline, pushing forward rules on mandatory human rights and environmental due diligence.
“Yes, regulation is necessary, but we don’t want to duplicate the approach. We don’t want country-specific or trading block-specific legislations. We want legislation which is accepted by all players in the global fashion industry. So basically we want convergence in due-diligence of different countries. We want a level playing field throughout the supply chain.”
He continued, “The fashion industry needs to agree on a globally standardised approach to purchasing practices and due diligence, otherwise it will become too difficult for the suppliers to comply with thousands of different structures.
