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Sweet smell of Ramadan tempts as South Asia's Muslims fast

AFP . Dhaka
04 Apr 2022 17:13:47 | Update: 04 Apr 2022 17:15:44
Sweet smell of Ramadan tempts as South Asia's Muslims fast
In this picture taken on April 3, 2022, a shopkeeper selling a sweet dish waits for customers at a market on the first day of the holy fasting month of Ramadan in the old quarters of Delhi — AFP Photo

Mosques and market streets teem with evening crowds tempted by the scent of syrupy sweets and hefty rice plates, as more than half a billion Muslims across southern Asia break the day's Ramadan fast.

The Islamic holy month began over the weekend and during that time believers abstain from eating, drinking, smoking, and sexual relations between sunrise and sunset.

The fast is conceived as a spiritual struggle against the seduction of earthly pleasures -- but for the nightly "iftar" meal, festive meals traditionally bring families together and there is an intensely social activity.

In this picture taken on April 3, 2022, Wasim Siddiqui (L), a cook fries Malpua, a traditional Indian sweet dish for Muslim devotees on the first day of the holy fasting month of Ramadan in Mumbai — AFP Photo 

The centuries-old Chawkbazar market in Bangladesh is a traditional centre for evening meet-ups during Ramadan, with hundreds of makeshift food stalls selling traditional grilled meats and delicacies.

Huge crowds returned to the neighbourhood on Sunday for the first time since the coronavirus pandemic put a pin on large public gatherings.

"I am so happy to see people here," said Ramzan Ali, who has sold barbequed quail at the market for around four decades. "The last two years were painful."

A Syrian man fries a sweet dough on the first day of the holy Muslim month of Ramadan in the Turkish-controlled city of al-Bab in Syria's northern Aleppo on April 2, 2022 — AFP Photo 

Traditional dishes of pakoras and lentil soup were on offer alongside more esoteric fare, like kebabs made from the meat of bull genitalia and the ever-popular fried goat brain served to accompany roast meats and vegetables.

"It felt so good to come here again," said businessman Mohammad Ashrafuddin.

"Without Chawkabazar's iftar items, I feel like my Ramadan isn't complete."

Pakistan's Muslims are also basking in the opportunity to again breakfast in the company and out from under a Covid crowd, with the government lifting restrictions on public gatherings weeks earlier.

Mosques have been lit up with lanterns and nearby markets are bustling as crowds stop for fried sweet pastries and stock up on meals to distribute to the poor.

In India, crowds flock to stalls that line a street in the shadow of New Delhi's resplendent Jama Masjid, one of the country's largest houses of worship, snacking on wrinkled dates and seasonal sweet buns baked with infusions of coconut or cherries.

Subdued celebrations

More subdued evening gatherings are underway in Afghanistan, where people are still reckoning with an acute humanitarian crisis in the wake of last year's US withdrawal and the Taliban's return to power.

The most popular fast-breaking local dish is Kabuli pulao -- rice sprinkled with saffron and mixed with dry fruits, especially black raisins.

Special spicy pickles and jalebis -- a calorific sphere of deep-fried batter soaked in sugary syrup -- are also relished by families during their evening meals after breaking the dawn-to-dusk fast.

But many have been forced to keep their purchases to a bare minimum this year on account of the country's food shortage.

"For the first time, I'm seeing that food prices have risen so much in Ramadan," Kabul resident Shahbuddin told AFP on the weekend.

"People were expecting that in an Islamic country prices would drop during Ramadan, but that has not happened."

Islam is the second-largest religion in South Asia after Hinduism, and the region is home to around a third of the faith's adherents.

Ramadan is sacred to Muslims because tradition says the Koran was revealed to the Prophet Mohammed during that month.

The global observance draws to a close with the Eid al-Fitr festival, a celebration marked by prayers and feasts.