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Millions on water: Bhimruli’s entrancing floating hog plum market

Shakhawat Hossain Sumon . Back from Barishal
22 Sep 2024 00:39:30 | Update: 22 Sep 2024 00:39:30
Millions on water: Bhimruli’s entrancing floating hog plum market
Sellers loading fresh hog-plums from one 'Kosha' boat to another in the steady waters near the Bhimruli canal market — Shamsul Haque Ripon

The floating hog plum market of Bhimruli—almost everyone in Bangladesh has heard whispers of its charm, but how many have been truly immersed in its unique allure?

Nestled in the tranquil waters of the Kirtonkhola river, this floating market is more than just a place of interesting trade; it is a living, breathing piece where culture and commerce intertwine in one of the country’s most picturesque settings.

As the mist rises in the early morning, small boats, locally called “kosha” boats, begin to gather on the waters, each brimming with freshly harvested hog plums or guavas depending on the season. The boats, like floating baskets of green and yellow jewels, glide gently across the water, transforming the Kirtipasha canal at Swarupkathi into a bustling marketplace.

The scene is almost surreal—hundreds of these boats forming a grid in the middle of the river, each one playing its part in age old tradition.

Wholesalers from far-flung districts arrive here, anchoring their large trawlers by the riverbank. With an air of familiarity, they wait patiently as the local sellers navigate their smaller boats towards them, shouting out prices as they approach. Negotiations begin almost immediately, the sound of voices mingling with the soft lap of water against the wood. Prices are called out, offers are made, and once a deal is struck, the wholesaler’s boat is loaded with the ripe, juicy fruits of the season. The cycle repeats itself, creating a symphony of commerce on the water.

But what makes Bhimruli truly special is not just the trade—it’s the experience. Tourists from all over the country come to witness this floating marvel. With eyes wide in wonder, they watch as the boatmen expertly manoeuvre their kosha boats, cutting through the water with grace and skill.

Getting there

While the floating market offers significant economic value, it also presents an unforgettable experience for tourists seeking something truly unique. To see this mesmerizing market for yourself, you’ll first need to travel to Barishal—a vibrant city known for its waterways. Though you can reach Barishal by road or air, the most scenic and immersive route is by river, aboard a traditional Launch (ferry).

The recommended route is Dhaka-Barishal-Swarupkathi-Dhaka. Every evening at 8pm, several luxurious launches depart from Dhaka’s bustling Sadarghat Launch Terminal, heading toward Barishal. The overnight ferry trip is a peaceful journey, allowing you to experience the quiet beauty of the riverside under a starry sky.

Here is a breakdown of cabin options and fares for the launch journey: VIP cabin is Tk 5,000 to Tk 7,000, Semi-VIP cabin is Tk 4,000 to Tk 4,500, Family cabin is Tk 2,500 to Tk 3,500, Double cabin is Tk 1,700 to Tk 1,800 while single cabin is Tk 900 to Tk 1,000, and finally deck seats are available at Tk 250 each.

The launch will reach Barishal by 7am, giving you plenty of time to enjoy a local breakfast before continuing your journey. To reach Swarupkathi, you can either hire a "leguna" (a local form of transport) for about Tk 70 or take a bus from the nearby stand. From Swarupkathi, a short ride on a trawler will take you straight to the floating market, where the real adventure begins.

If you are traveling with a group, renting a trawler for the entire day is an option, costing around Tk 2,000 to Tk 3,000. This allows you to explore the floating market at your own pace, taking in the vibrant sights, sounds, and flavours of this one-of-a-kind experience.

200 years of legacy

The boatmen, used to the currents and the challenges of the river, row effortlessly towards the visitors, often to share a word or two. Laughter fills the air as tourists chat up the local sellers, often playfully asking for a single hog plum to taste the freshness of the fruit, straight from the boat.

The floating market is a spectacle, but it is also a proof to the resilience of the community. Bhimruli, a small village in the Nesarabad upazilla of Pirojpur, has been home to this floating market for over 200 years.

Generations of traders and boatmen have kept this tradition alive, passing down their skills and stories through the ages. Each year, as the Bengali month of Bhadra begins, the canal comes alive with the vibrant trade of hog plums—a trade that continues for two months, marking the peak of the harvest season.

This year, the market is as lively as ever, despite challenges. The hog plum trade is booming across different districts of the region, and early in the season, the fruits are being sold wholesale for Tk 800 to Tk 1,000 per maund (approximately 40 kilogrammes).

However, there is an undercurrent of concern among the farmers. Severe drought, excessive rain, and flooding have taken their toll on the harvest. The intense heat, coupled with heavy rains, has reduced yields, and many farmers fear that their losses may mount in the coming weeks.

Nevertheless, the market endures, with traders working tirelessly to supply the fruit to cities and towns across the country, including the capital city Dhaka. The hog plums of Bhimruli, once harvested, travel far—via both water and land routes—bringing a taste of this small village to the rest of Bangladesh.

‘Worth hundreds of millions’

Meanwhile, the Department of Agricultural Extension (DAE) reports a steady increase in hog plum orchards each year, driven by the fruit's low production costs and rising profitability. Farmers are regularly provided with guidance on cultivation techniques to maximise their yields.

According to Jhalakathi’s DAE Deputy Director Md Monirul Islam, “Hog plums not only offer a higher profit margin compared to other fruits but can also be preserved for extended periods after harvesting, allowing for more flexible marketing.

"This season, hog plums worth hundreds of millions of takas will be sold," he remarked, highlighting the fruit’s growing economic importance.

The Department of Agriculture has set a target of producing 6,500 tonnes of hog plums in Jhalakathi this season, reflecting the increased focus on this profitable crop. Local farmers note that while the floating market is widely known as a guava hub, the peak trading season for hog plums begins just as the guava season draws a curtain.

This seamless transition allows wholesalers to remain in the market, ensuring a smooth shift from guava to hog plum trading, further solidifying the market’s status as a year-round commercial centre.

The villages of Dumuria, Betla, and Baruhar in Jhalkathi are renowned for growing guavas and hog plums, with their produce sold at markets like Atghar, Kuriar, and the Bhimruli floating market.

With Bhimruli being the largest and most vibrant of these markets, bustling with activity from 8am until noon. Farmers arrive in Kosha boats, while wholesalers purchase in trawlers. Locals said that the peak trading season for hog plums runs through the Bengali months of Ashwin and Kartik, beginning just after Sraban.

Each day, 50 to 60 maunds of hog plums are shipped to Dhaka, Chattogram, and Chandpur, priced between Tk 800 and Tk 1,000 per maund. Some of the produce, both raw and processed, is also exported overseas from Chattogram via cargo ships, say businessmen.

For those lucky enough to experience it, the floating market of Bhimruli is more than just a place to buy or sell fruit. It is a glimpse into a simpler, slower way of life—where the river is both a road and a marketplace, and where the rhythms of nature and trade have remained in sync for centuries. So, the next time you hear about this floating wonder, do not just imagine it. Make the journey and witness the magic for yourself.

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