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Savouring Dhaka’s streetside fruit fiesta

Md Samiur Rahman Sazzad
21 Sep 2023 22:08:37 | Update: 21 Sep 2023 22:08:37
Savouring Dhaka’s streetside fruit fiesta
Fruit vendors at different points of Dhaka help quench people’s thirst in scorching summer heat — Shamsul Haque Ripon

Nourishing communities with both wholesome produce and a taste of local culture in the heart of the bustling Dhaka City, a vibrant trade continues to thrive – vending fruits on the street.

Easily accessible, affordable and often providing relief from the intense heat of summer, streetside fruit vendors have become part of the city dwellers’ lives.

Except a few winter months, these fruit vendors are a common sight in various parts of Dhaka, offering an array of seasonal fruits on their carts. One will find papayas, pineapples, watermelons, and grapefruits artfully mixed with kasundi (a Bengali variety of mustard sauce) or black salt or a mixture of salt and chilli powder, all priced at a reasonable Tk 20-30 per plate.

On the pavement of the road stretching between Press Club to Paltan intersections, several fruit vendors set up shop on the roadside and footpaths. Some use small carts, while others elegantly balance large bowls or baskets on their heads. Their customers span all walks of life, from office-goers and students to rickshaw pullers and locals of various professions.

Md Limon, a private company employee, regularly indulges in papaya on his way home from work. He appreciates the convenience of enjoying freshly cut fruits on the spot, avoiding the hassle of peeling and chopping at home. Plus, the unique flavour brought out by kasundi enhances the experience.

Md Enayet Hossain, who works in the area, opts for fruits as a healthier alternative to fried, oily snacks, especially when he gets home late in the evening. And local rickshaw puller Kashem finds solace in watermelons, often seasoned with a pinch of salt, a delightful and refreshing treat during scorching summer days.

Despite the escalating prices of daily necessities, small servings of fruits remain within the affordability range of mid to low-income individuals. Customers frequent these stalls, understanding that proper hygiene standards are seldom followed while preparing the servings.

Through the eye of the sellers

Md Siddique, a fruit vendor on Shegunbagicha Road, has been in the trade since the early 1970s. His small cart, opposite the National Press Club, brims with papayas, pineapples, and watermelons. His day typically starts after Fajr prayer when he heads to Karwan Bazar to purchase goods. By 9 am, he sets up his stall, meticulously peeling, chopping, and serving fruits to eager customers.

Siddique’s daily sales often reach Tk 3,000, and during intense heatwaves or major events, they can surge to Tk 5,000. Brilliant red mountain papayas, both visually striking and delicious, are especially popular among his customers.

While the monthly profit margin of Tk 60,000 to Tk 80,000 might seem lucrative, life as a street vendor is not without challenges. Vendors like Siddique must satisfy law enforcers for the privilege of setting up their stalls. “We have to pay the police Tk 100 per day to be allowed to set up a stall. Sometimes magistrates confiscate our belongings. Our business is floating, one day it is here, the next it is gone,” added Siddique.

Md Hasan, another fruit seller in the area, offers yellow watermelons alongside other fruits. He moved to Dhaka 12 years ago, aspiring to provide a better life for his family. Hasan has a loyal customer base, with people coming specifically for his fresh fruits. Despite the daily expenses, his summer profits range from Tk 30,000 per month, though this decreases to Tk 15,000-17,000 during the winter. He, too, must pay various individuals, including law enforcers, Tk 150 daily to run his stall.

Shafiqul Islam’s fruit stall on the side of the pavement at Paltan intersection was crowded with customers. He sells papaya, watermelon and pineapples for Tk 30 per plate.

Shafiq’s father moved their family to Dhaka 17 years ago from Kishoreganj. He started selling fruits in front of Bangladesh Shilpakala Academy at first to take care of his father but later moved to the Paltan area.

“I have year-round watermelon, yellow watermelon, mountain papaya and mountain pineapple. I make a daily sale of Tk 5,000-7,000,” he said.

He added that the red-coloured mountain papayas of Bandarban are hand-picked and sourced from dealers to ensure the best quality. They are also in high demand and are sweeter compared to the local variety of papayas.

More shops are selling different types of fruits on various roads in the area. Some sell guava and hog plum, but most shops sell papaya and pineapple.

Barishal’s Abdul Mannan set up a papaya and pineapple fruit stall a bit up north from the Paltan intersection. 

“I used to do business together with my brother but after his death a year ago I now continue alone. I do not sell watermelons as they are expensive. But you can find delicious papaya and pineapple at my stall here from 10am to 10pm,” he said.

In response to a question Abdul said that as a floating trade, he has moved stalls from different spots in the area. 

“I pay Tk 60 per day to do business here. Even so, my stall was seized twice by the magistrate. But I have no other option but to continue this profession,” he added.

Even with all the hurdles they face regularly, streetside fruit sellers provide fresh and affordable fruit options, making them accessible to a wide range of consumers.

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