Bakarkhani keeps spreading aroma

Abdur Razzak Sohel

Despite the Nawabi chapter being closed, the ‘Nawabi’ of Bakarkhani, a traditional dry bread originating in Mughal era, continues to offer delicacy to food lovers with its taste and uniqueness.

The slightly crispy, yet soft flatbread was first introduced in this part of the sub-continent during the formative years of Dhaka, and now it has spread its aroma to different parts of the country and beyond.

Though its popularity was confined among the dwellers of Old Dhaka for decades, the plain yet legendary food item is now gaining popularity in across Dhaka, Chattogram, Rajshahi, Cumilla, Sylhet, Habiganj, Natore, Barishal and other parts of the country.

Israt Jahan Moumy, a student of the Law department of Dhaka University said, “I never tasted Bakarkhani before coming to Dhaka. Now it has become a part of my life. I often buy Bakarkhani and enjoy with great appetite.”

Bakarkhai is also popular among the diaspora who came to Bangladesh from China, Afghanistan, Nepal and India.

“Students from foreign countries often come to my store to buy Bakarkhani as it is a traditional food at Old Dhaka,” said Mozammel Mia, owner of Sumaya Sera Bakarkhani shop at Nazimuddin Road.

“Eating the dish is one kind of hobby to them. Two Chinese students are my regular customers who often come to me and buy 2.5-kilogram Bakarkhani at a time,” he said.

Old Dhaka cuisine achieved a special place in the food culture of Bangladesh and Bakarkhani is on the top of the list of such food items.

Aminul Islam, 45, has been in the Bakarkhani business for around 35 years. When he was 10, he came to Dhaka from Brahmanbaria and started working at a Bakarkhani shop, where he used to bring coal for baking. Now he is the owner of Al-Amin Bakarkhani and 10 employees are working in his shop.

“Three of us, among five brothers, are involved in the business in Dhaka. We are so happy with our business that we extended it to Keraniganj where two of my brothers are involved,” he said.

Bakarkhani a must at morning and evening snacks in Old Dhaka

Sipping tea with Bakarkhani is the most common breakfast practice for the people of Old Dhaka. Morning remains incomplete for them without the traditional flatbread.

Most of the buyers of Bakarkhani are from Old Dhaka, according to the sellers. Not only for breakfasts and evening snacks, residents of Old Dhaka even present Bakarkhani as a condolence gift if any of their relatives pass away.

“We can live without rice but not Bakarkhani,” said Sumi Akhter, a customer at Sumaiya Sera Bakarkhani at Nazimuddin Road, while buying 2 kg of bakarkhani.

“We used to keep Bakarkhani as a staple item in our breakfast and also in evening snacks,” she said, “We were taught this tradition by our elders and are also teaching it to our next generation, so that the tradition may live throughout the transformation of eras.”

Where the name came from

According to some renowned writers, a general named Aga Baker in Chattogram, during the rule of Nawab Siraj-ud-Daulah, fell in love with a beautiful dancer named Khani Begum. A rival general was also highly interested in Khani Begum. As a result of the two lover’s dispute, Khani Begum was murdered and their love turned into a tragedy.

Failing to have Khani in his life, Baker made a bread item to commemorate his love. The name “Baker-Khani” later transformed into “Bakarkhani.”

How it is made

According to the bakers, three types of Bakarkhani are made in the shops in Bangladesh — salty, sweet and cheesy. The common ingredients for all kinds of Bakarkhani are flour, water, salt, oil and vegetable fat.

Firstly, the dough needs to be made by mixing flour, water and salt. The dough is then expanded and

flattened with a rolling pin. Then flour, oil and vegetable fat are brushed on it and put inside a tandoor making small pieces from the flattened dough. After baking for 10 minutes with the heat of coal and wood, small, Bakarkhais are pulled out of the oven with a metal stick.

‘Employee by tradition’

People who are involved in producing Bakarkhani have come to the profession traditionally. Most of such employees are from Habiganj while the rest are from Brahmanbaria and Kishoreganj, according to the employers involved in the sector.

Mozammel Mia, 28, making Bakarkhani for around eight years, joined the sector with the help of his brother Mohammad Zakaria, 33. According to Mozammel, Zakaria came to this profession by his brother-in-law Joynal Mia, Joynal by his uncle Amir Mia and Amir by his father.

Despite aiming to join the military, Mozammel came to the sector after completing graduation from MC College, Sylhet as it was quite easy to start working and did not need much capital, he said.

It is a tough job to work continuously bearing the constant heat of the fire, which is why people express less interest in the sector, he added.

Mohammad Manna works at Al-Amin Bakarkhani at Nazimuddin Road. “My grandfather was in this profession. I was inspired by my grandfather and joined the sector,” he said, “I am so happy to do this, I feel pleasure in this profession.”

Now a ‘super shop food’

Bakarkhani is not just a food item found in footpaths or small roadside shops anymore. Its popularity has taken it to super shops. The super shops in the capital are increasingly being decked with various types of Bakarkhani but the prices there are three to four times the regular price.

“We operate our business in six areas across the country including two in the capital — Kakrail, Uttara, Rajshahi, Natore, Bonpara (Natore) and Cumilla,” said Mohammad Zakir Hossen, assistant manager of Big Bazar at Kakrail.

The Nazimuddin Road branch of super shop Shwapno displayed Bakarkhani in their product list. While asked how the item selling, Nimai Sarkar, senior product specialist of the shop, said, “We listed Bakarkhani as our item as customers often search for it. As it is a traditional food, people often buy it from us.”