Home ›› 18 Sep 2021 ›› News
Alad Hossian, 50, was roaming around the Demra Jamdani Haat with two bags in his hands for more than an hour to sell 10 pieces of Jamdani sarees. Unfortunately, he failed to sell a single saree as the number of customers is reducing day by day.
Just a few years back, he did not have to stand for long to sell only 10 pieces of sarees. But those good days are gone as weavers are bearing the brunt of corona-induced woes.
The weekly traditional haat, a makeshift marketplace, used to take place from 3:00am to 6:00am on Friday for several years but now it takes place from 5:00am to 8:00am, due to less number of customers, according to traders.
“Once upon a time, the market had a good reputation because of the quality Jamdami products. We, weavers, use to return home with smiling faces. Back then, we were able to sell 20-50 pieces of sarees but now we can’t even sell five pieces. Corona snatched most of our customers,” Alad Hossian said.
Alad further added that the Jamdani market lost its appeal due to various reasons, such as the low number of customers, availability of substandard Indian Jamdani products which are factory-made, the high cost of yarn etc.
Back in 2016, Jamdani has been recognised as a Geographical Indication (GI) product of Bangladesh. This recognition was expected to facilitate its weavers to brand the luxurious cloth in a better way at home and abroad.
“The Covid-19 and increasing yarn prices have created more challenges for weavers. However, I made two pieces of Jamdani sarees in a week at my home in Sonargaon of Narayanganj. My wife supports me to make it,” Alad added.
Another weaver Gias Uddin said he sold one piece of saree at Tk 2,500. “We have brought eight pieces of sarees today but only able to sell one. Our livelihood is under threat now. Moreover, I did not get any assistance from the government amid the pandemic.”
Gias said that the government should take such initiative so that Indian substandard Jamdani products cannot enter Bangladesh. “The government should expand the Bangladeshi Jamdani market across the globe. Then, our glorious days will return, and local weavers will get the proper price,” Gias also added.
Weaver M Abul Kalam said that most Jamdani sarees came to Demra Jamdani Haat from Narayanganj. “Now around 700-800 weavers are in different areas of the district. Several years ago, the number was around 1,200-1,500. Many weavers are leaving the business for not getting a fair price,” he added.
Jamdani has many designs like Phul-Terchi, Dalam-Terchi, Chhitar-Terchi, Paan-Terchi, Hatu-bhanga, Sui-Jaal, Madan-Par etc.
“After the yarns are dyed, we process them for weaving jamdani using rice starch. Later, we dry them under the sun for hours. Then, the saree is woven on a handloom, and we add patterns in various colours and styles,” Kalam added.
Abul Kalam also added that he has to pay a labourer Tk 1,000-1,200 to make a saree. Yarn and other costs soared recently. So, it is tough to continue the business now, he said.
Talking to The Business Post, Jamdani wholesaler of Demra Haat M Masum Mia said, “Now we are only five wholesalers in the market. Generally each week, we sell Tk 10-15 lakh. Earlier, we sold Tk 30-35 lakh in every haat day. But there is no sale like previous years.”
The proprietor of ‘Nakshi Jamdani Ghar’ at the market also said that the Jamdani sarees are sold more in religious festivals like Durga Puja, two Eid festivals and marriage occasions.
“Nylon made Jamdani is sold at Tk 1,300-5,000, cotton jamdani at Tk 2,000- 45,000, silk Jamdani at Tk 5,000-20,000; and exclusive high-quality silk sarees sold over Tk 1 lakh to Tk 1.50 lakh per piece,” Masum added.
Masum also added that they purchase Jamdani saree, panjabi and three-piece from weavers. “If one buyer wants to purchase a saree worth more than one lakh taka, then the individual has to place order four months ahead. One can also get a customised saree at Tk 50,000 as per one’s desired design but have to place the order two or three months ahead. We can make all kinds of designed sarees from weavers,” he added.
The proprietor of Chad Jamdani House Shahid Hossain said the Derma Haat started many years ago when only Muslin fabrics were sold. The Jamdani market began here after the liberation war. There are two buildings in the market. Lastly, the Demra Bazar Jamdani Complex building was expanded on October 2, 2014.
He also added that he sold a Jamdani saree of an 84-count yarn at Tk 55,000 this week which is sold at Tk 80,000 in upmarket showrooms.
