A new trade on the ancient Silk Route

Scattered across a remote Western Himalayan valley on the ancient Silk Route to China are six ancient Indian villages that have lain abandoned for more than half a century. Although they might look nondescript, these mountain houses with broken walls and crumpled roofs share a glorious past – and an ambiguous future.

Located just 20km from the Tibetan border, the Johar Valley was once a major trade route. Shauka tribesmen, traditionally farmers and shepherds in this area, became successful and prosperous merchants, travelling more than 1,500km east to Kolkata to procure silk, spices and other goods to trade with Tibet. At their peak in the early 1900s, these villages flourished with wealth and prosperity. They had hotels and restaurants to host weary travellers, and their huge stone houses had slate roofs and intricately carved window and doorframes.

Tibetan traders would make the journey in reverse through high-altitude passes on narrow trails with their yaks and other livestock to reach Milam, the first village on the Indian side of the border, where they would trade wool, salt and precious stones.

Stones engraved with Tibetan text are commonly found in the abandoned villages, testament to this thriving trade route.

Milam, once a trade hub with 400 families, was so big that it’s said that newlywed brides, after fetching water from the nearby springs, would often lose their way in the maze-like alleys and end up in the wrong house.Legend has it that there’s a spot on the cliff above the village, still marked by a flag, from where people would loudly call the lost women and give them directions.

India’s border disputes with China led to the Sino-Indian War in 1962. After a series of failed dialogues between the two countries, the borders were sealed and platoons of Indian soldiers were deployed in the Johar Valley. The villages were evacuated and the Shaukas moved to lower areas where they were offered land and jobs in the government. Trade with Tibet came to an end.

The valley finally reopened in 1994, but with strict rules. Even today, after about 60 years of peace on the border, all visitors are carefully monitored for a fear of them being Chinese spies, with bags searched and cameras checked. Travellers require a permit along with approval from the Indo Tibet Border Police and clearance from the forest department. Milam – the biggest Indo Tibet Border Police post with a large helipad – is the furthest anyone can go, and no one is allowed to cross the border.

Despite the complex permissions process, Johar Valley is becoming popular among hikers, with many challenging trails through the high-altitude passes.

Two of the abandoned villages, Panchu and Ghangar, are the starting point of a 6km-long trek to the base camp of Nanda Devi, India’s second highest mountain at 7,816m. With many unclimbed peaks in the region, the valley is a magnet for experienced climbers. Although the wealthy Shauka traders moved down the mountain decades ago, some of their descendants are returning to rebuild the ruined homes. However, it’s an expensive job as construction materials have to be transported by mule from the nearest town around 60km away. Many families just camp in the derelict homes during the warmer months.

BBC