The epic story of Vanilla

The more you come to know about vanilla, the more it seems the age-old descriptor “plain vanilla” is meant ironically—like a big guy whose nickname is ‘Tiny.’ As the only variety out of 25,000 species of orchid that produces an agriculturally useful product, vanilla is literally unique—and it could hardly be more exotic: It’s one of the most complex flavors in existence (with more than 200 flavor compounds), it’s the second-most expensive spice in the world (after saffron) and its history is steeped in intrigue, ancient civilizations, piracy, and brutal conquest. Oh, and there’s a 12-year-old, child-prodigy slave with a starring role.

The epic tale begins in the 15th century, in the mountainous regions of Mexico, where a tribe known as the Totonacs were the first civilization known to grow and cultivate vanilla pods. They mainly used them for medicinal or religious purposes, instead of culinary ones. But even without sampling much of vanilla’s glorious taste, the Totonacs believed it was a gift from the gods. Literally. In Totonac lore, vanilla orchids sprouted from the blood of a runaway deity and her forbidden mortal lover, both of whom were captured and slain by the princess’s father. Hey, if you’ve ever seen the way the vine-like vanilla orchid spreads itself along the limbs of a tree, the story is not that farfetched.

But their mastery over this ambrosia didn’t last long. The Aztecs swooped in and conquered the Totonacs, forcing them to give up their sacred vanilla. The Aztecs began demanding tax from the Totonacs in the form of vanilla beans, and leaned heavily into its deliciously edible properties. They discovered (and modern science would back them up on this) that it had aphrodisiac potencies, and they combined vanilla with cacao in a ceremonial concoction called “xocolatl” (or chocolatl, also known as the original hot chocolate). Since the vanilla orchid turns black after maturing and being harvested, the Aztecs called it the “black flower.”

The Aztecs rode high, reigning over their precious flower—and all of Mesoamerica—until Spanish explorers landed on their shores. Despite the Spaniards’ obviously hostile intentions, the Aztec emperor Montezuma is said to have offered Spanish conquistador Hernán Cortés a traditional goblet of vanilla-infused hot chocolatl. Cortés drank it gladly, managed to acquire the recipe, and proceeded to end Montezuma’s life and dominion.

Cortés brought the vanilla-flavored Mexican hot chocolate back to Europe, where Hugh Morgan, an apothecary to England’s Queen Elizabeth, had the bright idea to deploy vanilla by itself—leading to a starring role for the black flower in a wide range of products, including perfumes, tobacco, and alcohol. Vanilla consumption took off in the budding United States shortly thereafter, largely thanks to

Thomas Jefferson, who was known to add it to his ice cream. Jefferson assembled one of the earliest recipes for vanilla ice cream, now preserved in the Library of Congress. Demand for this new and beguiling flavor spread across the US during the 18th century, and vanilla soon started appearing in domestic cookbooks and in soft drinks like Pemberton’s Coca-Cola.

Thrillist