Monipuri sarees: A treasure of culture

Sari wearing is an intricate and colourful display of Bangladesh’s robust culture. Bangladesh has always been the producer of the world's most valued fabric. If we look into the intricate tapestry of Bangladesh's cultural heritage we would find many parts of the country upholding a vibrant thread of tradition through their weaving.

Monipuri Saris stands apart with its story of unique culture, artistry and vibrancy. They epitomize the essence of the vibrant Monipuri Community. The textile industry has shown progressive development in regaining its regal position with Jamdani and Muslin and recognition from UNESCO. The heritage of Jamdani and the world’s appreciation of the artistry of the finest textile sometimes seem to camouflage the wider variety of our textiles, one such is the Manipuri handloom sarees by the ethnic Monipuri tribes of Bangladesh.

The Monipuris are the Meitei people, one of the major ethnic groups of Bangladesh. They migrated to the Sylhet division during the Manipuri-Burma War. The Monipuris have assimilated themselves with the culture of Bangladesh but still maintain their dialect, cuisine, culture and tradition. The Monipuri women are not limited to household chores, they are born weavers, and they have had the culture of weaving sarees for themselves. Traditionally, the skilled women in the community are entrusted with weaving. They shoulder the responsibility of preserving and imparting the technical skill to their posterity. Young girls are apprenticed under the elders in their families. The weaving, at once becomes a source of livelihood, artistic expression and cultural identity for the Monipuri tribe.

These fabrics were brightly coloured and often created for personal use, with a distinctive pattern. These colourful sarees project the vibrancy of our culture. Though it follows the same waft technique of Jamdani weaving, the fabric has a tiny hole like a mesh as it is woven loosely hence, permeable and light-weighted. The weavers usually use two varieties of yarn for the saris giving it either a coarse or finer feel.

The handcrafted sarees from within the household of the Monipuris have been made available to the markets.  These sarees often took a back seat as saree-wearing portions of our society were prone to buying Indian sarees.  With the advent of digital and technology transformation and social media, our modern designers are playing an intrinsic part in popularizing the Monipuri sarees and other products. The designers with profound knowledge of textiles and fashion are generating and reviving their age-old skills. With time, the mesh fabric is turning into the finer quality and has undergone a massive transformation and modernity and complexity have also been introduced.

These sarees are the summer-friendly as its highly breathable and have low-cost maintenance.  The vibrancy in colour and pattern and comfort of the fabric make it a viable option in comparison to our exquisite and high-rocketing Jamdani sarees. The sarees are colourful, affordable, comfortable, and added to these they are easily paired with local accessories. It comes in varied colours and can be worn by all age groups. These sarees define the diversity of our vibrant culture.

Social media and online entrepreneurs have created a platform for bringing our local products to the general public. The platform is aptly used to set a trend and create awareness for using desi products, and also refining and promoting the culture at the same time.  The government is doing its part and we as responsible citizens promote desi products and take opportunities to familiarize the world in our own way. Our Bangladeshi diaspora could play a significant role in the promotion of our culture. We must embrace our heritage and promote our ethnic culture to the world. As the world joins hands to pledge on the occasion of International Mother Language Day to promote both linguistic and cultural diversity, it is our moral responsibility to promote and enhance our culture.

The relevant authority has its focus on the revival of the handloom sector as it is aware that it is the biggest source of rural employment after agriculture. It is also a source of women empowerment and rural employment.  The government is arranging training programmes for enlisted weavers. Despite the government’s initiative, the sector encounters various challenges. Owing to the lack of modernity, many weavers are switching to power looms or different jobs in search of better livelihoods. Some weavers also migrate to neighbouring countries to improve their standard of living and secure stability in their jobs to keep up their basic standard of living for their families.

The writer is a teacher by profession. She has a passion for promoting culture, tradition and heritage of Bangladesh. She is a voracious reader and likes to pen down her thoughts.