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EXPLORING COX'S BAZAR

An embroidery woven with exploration, friendship and unexpected delights

Md Samiur Rahman Sazzad
27 May 2024 17:03:20 | Update: 27 May 2024 17:31:16
An embroidery woven with exploration, friendship and unexpected delights
- Shamsul Haque Ripon

"As an avid traveller, the thrill of embarking on a journey to a new destination never truly fades. But this time, a particular trip held an extra spark of excitement. A four-day adventure awaited me: Cox's Bazar, a coastal gem nestled in the southeastern corner of Bangladesh, beckoned with its promises of sun-drenched beaches and vibrant culture.

What initially began as academic fieldwork - a necessary element of my studies - quickly morphed into something far more enigmatic. This trip, I knew, had the potential to be a soul-stirring exploration of nature, culture, and the camaraderie that blossoms amongst friends on shared adventures.

Our rendezvous with Cox's Bazar was initially scheduled for the bright and sunny May 7. However, even the best-laid plans can be subject to nature's whims. A severe heatwave swept across the country, forcing a postponement of the initial plans.

However, this unexpected delay did little to dampen our spirits. On the designated day, my fellow classmates gathered at the Jagannath University campus, a buzz of anticipation filling the air. While most of the group piled into the familiar confines of the university bus, a different path called to me. 

I yearned for a touch of independence, a chance to kick-start the adventure on my terms. So, with a backpack slung over my shoulder and a heart brimming with anticipation, I hailed a cab and made my way to the bustling Kamalapur Railway Station, ready to embark on a solo journey to the meeting point – a unique prelude to the shared experiences that lay ahead.

Parjotak Express

The journey commenced with a hint of suspense as our designated train, the 'Parjotak Express', decided to keep us waiting for an hour past its scheduled departure. Nevertheless, our spirits remained high, fuelled by the prospect of what lay ahead.

After an overnight voyage, we finally reached the beautiful Cox's Bazar, albeit two hours behind schedule. The delay did little to dampen our enthusiasm as we set foot in the coastal heaven.

Our accommodations at the 'Muscat Holiday Resort' promised comfort and convenience, with my room on the sixth floor offering a panoramic view of the surroundings. Despite the fatigue of travel, the allure of Cox's Bazar beckoned, and some of my companions wasted no time heading to Kolatoli Sea Beach to immerse themselves in the azure waters.

While my initial exploration of Cox's Bazar would have to wait, the day unfolded with delicious culinary indulgences at the Poushe Bangla Restora. Despite a slight delay in service, the taste of Koral fish, accompanied by lentils, rice, and salad, left an indelible mark on my palate as the produce was fresh.

As evening descended, our plans to visit the Himchori waterfall took an unexpected turn, leading us instead to Patuartek Sea Beach. The journey, undertaken in a modified Toyota Land Cruiser locally called 'Chander Gari,' offered glimpses of coastal splendour that set the stage for an unforgettable experience.

The day's highlight came with my inaugural plunge into the sea at Patuartek, a moment of pure exhilaration tinged with the ocean's salty embrace.

For the first time ever, I saw a sunset at the ocean. It was a sight that completely opened my eyes to the world's magnificence. The flaming colours melted into the horizon, lasting for what seemed like ages, astounded me. In those 40 something seconds, I realised how much more there is to see and experience in life.

The sheer euphoria of the moment eclipsed all woes, reminding me that true adventure often lies beyond our comfort zones. 

After that, we decided to head back to the hotel. As usual, the universe's whimsy followed, and we halted as one of our car's tyres got punctured. The expert driver gets it fixed in a jiffy, and we carry on sightseeing. And a sight we saw! Local entrepreneurs use a small knee-deep canal adjacent to the sea for kayaking. The hourly rate is Tk 50. Cheap thrills are the best way to engage in fun activities, but as it was my first time, I could not balance the kayaks at all. However, my friends and I pass the time joyfully.

As I sat on a deck chair with the great sea in front of me, I cracked up my phone and started listening to Warfaze’s 'Obak Bhalobasha', a poignant track which stemmed from the silence of the sea way back in 1992. The otherworldly sensation was just that, otherworldly.

As night fell, we returned to our hotel for a scrumptious dinner before venturing to the Sugandha sea beach once more, where the rhythm of the waves echoed our sense of camaraderie.

After we returned from the beach, our teacher called upon us to exchange the fieldwork plan. Mr Raihan, who is also our department senior, guided us through the next three days' activities.

Academic pursuits and cultural immersion

With the dawn of a new day came a renewed sense of purpose as we delved into the academic aspect of our journey.

Armed with curiosity and questionnaires, we embarked on a mission to unravel Cox's Bazar's environmental tapestry, engaging with locals to glean insights into its past, present, and future.

We asked them about the changes they have witnessed in Cox's Bazar's environmental scenario in the last 10 years. The locals also shared some insights about the condition of their livelihood and the difficulties they face. 

Our band of brothers charged towards the Environment Department's office of Cox's Bazar, where fruitful discussions with senior officials posted there shed light on the challenges and opportunities shaping the region's ecological landscape. 

Kuruskul offered a double dose of discovery. We explored Bangladesh's commitment to sustainable energy at the Wind Turbine Power Plant. Then, we gained a deeper understanding of the region through candid conversations with residents at the Khurushkul Ashrayan project. As dusk painted the sky, we returned to the hotel, enriched by the day's complexities.

Then, as fate would have it, Mohammad Nazmul Hasan, a friend of mine from university, suddenly called me up and said he was also in Cox's Bazar.

We planned to throw some meat onto the grill and make barbeque. But with trips like these, nothing is certain. A restaurant made the barbeque instead, but rest assured, we had it with our hearts' content.

Bargaining, beaches, and Buddhism

Amid the whirlwind of academic pursuits, the third day offered a respite in the form of cultural immersion and journalistic discourse. We kicked the day off with a visit to Laboni Sea Beach, where my friends indulged in some typical touristy activities such as horse riding, quad biking, and speed boat rides.

However, a word to be wary: As we knew of the tourism scams frequently occurring in Cox's Bazar, we were highly cautious before entering into a deal. I wished to ride a horse and a quad bike, but the vendors asked for a pretty hefty price.

This is where my bargaining skills came in handy. I got to ride a horse for Tk 200 per round (200 metres). A friend of mine struggled quite a bit to balance himself on the horse, but the experience was enjoyable nonetheless.

Bhuvan Shanti, the 100-foot-long lion bed statue of Gautama Buddha at one of the largest Buddhist temples, poignantly reminded us of spiritual serenity amidst worldly illusions. This was our second location for the day as part of the cultural immersion aspect of the academic field trip.

From there, a sojourn to Ramu Rubber Garden provided a picturesque backdrop for capturing moments frozen in time. 

Yet, our engagement with local journalists at the Cox's Bazar Press Club truly broadened our horizons. We young journalists got a glimpse of the challenges and triumphs of journalism in a region marked by its own unique dynamics.

We exchanged views with the local correspondents and learned about their challenges covering news at Cox's Bazar. We understand that the process of journalism in the capital city and in other places of the country is not the same. There are unique challenges everywhere.

As night descended, our reflections on the day's encounters were punctuated by the soothing symphony of the sea, a reminder of the ever-present rhythm of life along Cox's Bazar's shores.

Reflections and love

As the curtain fell on our four-day odyssey, bittersweet nostalgia lingered in the air. Our final day became a testament to the bonds we had forged. We returned one last time to the pristine beach that had witnessed our laughter and adventures. 

This time, however, a different kind of excitement crackled in the air. Unbeknownst to our friends Anik and Afrida, we had a surprise in store – a celebration for their one-month anniversary. Mahmudul Hasan Emon and I, entrusted with the secret mission, had procured a cake the previous night. As Anik and Afrida strolled hand-in-hand along the shore, we sprang into action, our cheers drawing their surprised and delighted gazes. The joy that erupted on their faces marked a success to the success of our plan. Laughter and heartfelt wishes filled the air, etching a beautiful memory onto the canvas of our Cox's Bazar adventure.

After that, we returned to our hotel and checked out of our rooms, saving one for our luggage.

We knew that the Burmese markets of Cox's Bazar had some of the best pickles (Achar), dry fish (Shutki), seashells, different types of jewellery, sweets, dried fruits, and nuts.

We visited the Tekpara Burmese Market after lunch, which was 4 kilometres from the hotel. A flurry of shopping got into us, and we bought some of the acclaimed pickles, shutki, sea shells and other souvenirs from there. 

Several makeshift shops were on both sides of the road, trying to scam us by asking two to three times the actual price.

This is where my friends' bargaining skills shone again. The masters of bargaining helped all of us buy the things we wanted.

After the tiring shopping spree, we freshened up at the hotel and headed back to the Cox's Bazar Railway Station.

We settled down in our seats and waited for departure. The train left Cox's Bazar at 9:30 pm, and I arrived at the bustling Dhaka Airport Railway Station in the morning, thus completing the four-day-long field trip of Cox's Bazar.

As I reminisce, with our hearts full and memories etched, we bid adieu to Cox's Bazar, laden with treasures of knowledge, camaraderie, and gratitude. As the train carried us back to reality, I could not help but reflect on the profound impact of this journey, which transcended the confines of academia to become a timeless testament to the beauty of exploration and the power of human connection.

Ultimately, our tour was not merely a fieldwork assignment but a transformative voyage that reaffirmed my belief in the magic of travelling and the boundless possibilities that await those willing to venture beyond the familiar.

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